Yugoslavian M95 Parts Kit Build

 

Tools Required:

1. Hammer
2. Dremel Tool
3. Small diameter file.
4. Torch
5. Liquid Wrench
6. Complete parts kit
7. 922r Compliance parts
8. AK Builder Rivet Jig
9. Trigger guard rivet jig.
10. Freezer or dry ice
11. Tape
12. Nodakspud M-95A Receiver
13. Underfolder Rivets
14. Stage 8 Bolts

 

The first step in the build process is to obtain the required parts and receiver for the build. We choose a complete receiver from NoDakSpud “NDS-Y556” instead of building our own. There are several advantages by going this route such as: time savings, correct heat treat, all holes are precut, and the ability to later sell the rifle (provided you are not manufacturing firearms for resale).

You will also have to obtain the correct number of U.S. manufactured parts to satisfy section 922(r) of Federal Law. We choose a U.S. pistol grip, G2 trigger kit, U.S. made flash hider and receiver. For information on section 922(r) please follow this link.

The next step is to clean and de-mill your kit. Typically the kits come prepackaged with TONS of grease. One of the best methods to remove the grease is to use break cleaner. However, heating the parts is also commonly used by builders; just don’t over heat the parts <115 degrees F.

De-milling the kit will be covered in another section; however for this build removing the old receiver remains, the barrel, trunion, rear block, trigger guard and rivets will be required. Additionally you will need a 20-ton press for this build. A 10-ton is sufficient however; a 20-ton will give you some breathing room. The press can be obtained from Harbor Freight for about $140.00. They offer coupons and side walk sales which can lower the price even more.

Section 1: Installing the rear block.

1. First put your barrel once it is removed from the trunion in the freezer. Leave the barrel in the freezer for several hours, ideally overnight. The purpose of this is to cause the metal to contract making the installation of the barrel easy.

 

2. Next, test fit the rear underfolder receiver block with the receiver. Place the rivets in their respective holes. You will probably notice that the holes do not align correctly (don’t freak). This is due to the process in which the original manufacturer uses to drill and install the blocks. Each kit is slightly different and thus no one receiver fits perfectly (unless you get lucky). The next step is to identify which holes are misaligned and egg the receiver holes accordingly (using a file or Dremel tool). Do not worry about the holes being perfectly circular, the rivets will cover it up; unless you go wild and “over egg” them. We used a Dremel tool, with a cone shaped grinding bit to recess the holes; thus allowing the swell neck rivet heads to sit flush. You are supposed to use a jig to recess the receiver for a factory installation.

 

3. Next we decided to install the long rear rivet with the remaining rivets being held in their respective holes. We used tape to hold the other rivets in-place while we crushed the long rivet. While this step is time consuming and very frustrating, it is in our opinion necessary. The reason you do this is to prevent the rear block from shifting when you compress the long rivet. It can be a serious pain (possibly impossible) to realign the rear block once the long rivet is crushed.

 

4. Finish installing the other rivets utilizing the same method. You can either use a pair of modified bolt cutters or an actual jig to crush the rivets. We choose the jig as it produces nicer looking rivets and isn’t as prone to pushing the rivets out (exposing part of the rivet shaft and creating a raised rivet). You will need a 20 ton press if you plan to use the rivet jig. Additionally, you may have to trim the long rivets to produce the correct rivet size, only a small amount of material needs to be removed.

 

5. Finally, inspect all the rivets and make sure the rear block is square/flush with the end of the receiver. If a little excess material remains it can be removed with a belt sander. Just make sure the block is square and not sitting at an angle.

Section 2: Installing front trunion.

1. We started installing the front trunion by test fitting the receiver. We inserted the trunion into the receiver and checked the hole alignment. We then checked to make sure the trunion was sitting flush against the spot welded rails. Additionally, we checked to see if the trunion face was flush with the receiver. Once we determined the fit of the trunion was correct we test fit the rivets. The swell neck rivets are used for the holes in the trunion; thus these locations will need to be recessed or dimpled. When test fitting the rivets make sure that all rivets can be inserted into their respective locations. If everything does not line up correctly, egg the holes until all the rivets can be test fitted. Then use tape to hold the rivets in-place. Again you want to crush the rivets with all in-place to prevent shifting. Note: we like to install the long rivets in the same direction as the previous rear long rivet. This will ensure a consistent look and feel with the factory rivet faceing one side and the crushed faces on the other side of the rifle. Use either the rivet jig or modified bolt cutters to crush the rivets. Make sure the rivets do no shift and become raised in this process (this is a common problem with the bolt cutters). That’s it; your front trunion should be installed.

Section 3: Installing the barrel.

1. The first step when installing the barrel is to check the front trunion for nicks, sharp edges and debris. You will want to file down the inside edge of the retaining pin hole, as it can be very sharp and will possibly shave metal off the barrel during installation. Once you have filed the inside edge and thoroughly cleaned the trunion you are ready.

2. First remember the barrel in the freezer; hopefully it has been cooling for several hours to a day. The first thing to do is to place the receiver vertically in the vise. The front trunion should be facing up with the rear of the receiver in the vise. Note: you might want to use something soft to prevent the vise from scratching the receiver. Do not apply much pressure, as it may deform the receiver.

3. Find your propane torch (maap gas will work however it does burn hotter) and light it up. Next apply heat evenly over the front trunion. Make sure you do not over heat the front trunion (orange, yellow, white, heck any color change is bad!). Continue to evenly heat the front trunion for several minutes (we are causing expansion here). Next get the barrel out of the freezer. Remember to wear gloves as it is very cold and rather painful when handling without protection. Spray a liberal coating of Liquid Wrench over the end of the barrel which is inserted into the trunion. Quickly align the barrel with the heated trunion making sure the sights are correctly aligned. You will only have a couple of seconds to complete this operation. Next quickly slide the barrel into the trunion as far as it will go. Rapid cooling and heating will occur and the barrel may not go completely in. Some builders report that they are able to completely install the barrel in this fashion; however, we are always concerned about over heating and thus barrel installation requires the 20-ton press.

4. Once the trunion and receiver have cooled, double check the alignment of the barrel. The barrel should appear inline with the receiver/trunion. The barrel should not appear at an angle with the receiver. If the barrel is not straight remove it from the trunion, as it will destroy the metal around the chamber.

5. Next take two pieces of square raw stock at least ½ inches in thickness. The two pieces will need to be the same thickness and long enough to perpendicularly lie across the support beam. Note: These two pieces of metal will provide support under pressure, they must be strong and steel is recommended. Next position the receiver between the two pieces with the receiver vertically supported between the press support. Using a c-camp, compress the receiver and two pieces of metal together. Next, using a stage 8 bolt (thick type), measure the distance between the trunion and raw bar stock support. Using a cutting tool trim the bolt to the desired length. Place the stage 8 bolt on the bar stock with one end supporting the short end of the trunion.

6. Once you have it setup, I recommend a break. The next operation is very important and shouldn’t be rushed. Take two-three pennies and place them on the muzzle of the barrel. Make sure you remove any flash hiders or muzzle breaks. Spray a liberal coat of Liquid Wrench on the contact points between the barrel and trunion. Bring the ram of the press down until it makes contact with the pennies. Double check to make sure everything is lined up straight. Once everything looks good, start pressing the barrel into the trunion. You will notice a loud sounding bang as the barrel moves, this is normal. Note: Yugoslavian AK variants appear to have tighter tolerances than other copies; they might require more pressure to press the barrel in. Press the barrel in slowly, paying careful attention to the barrel pin hole. The barrel pin hole will allow you to watch and determine if the trunion is shaving metal off the barrel (very common). If it is shaving metal off, the metal will appear as a roll; you should back the barrel out if this occurs. Once the barrel pin grove is aligned with the trunion hole, barrel pressing is finished.

Note: proper head spacing is recommended for all builds. However, parts kits with matching serial numbers generally do not require it, though this method is not recommended. If you choose to not headspace the rifle, make sure you remotely test fire it at a safe distance; using a vary long string and cover.

Section 4: Installing the barrel pin.

1. The most important thing when installing the barrel pin is to make sure the trunion and barrel are correctly supported. If you do not support the rifle correctly, the rear sight base will rotate and the sighting system will be off. The support points are the trunion and barrel. Do not apply pressure to the gas/rear sight base. Additionally, flip the rear sight forward or remove when installing the pin. If pressure is applied to the rear sight it will become bent. Once the barrel and receiver are properly supported you are ready to press the pin in. Lightly tap the pin in with a hammer to start it off, do not mushroom the end. Next use a jig or equivalent hardened punch to drive the barrel pin in. Watch the progress of the pin and continue until it appears an equal amount protrudes on either side. You will notice a loud bang as it moves into place, this is normal.

Section 5: Installing the trigger guard.

Perhaps the process loathed the most, is the installation of the trigger guard. The Yugoslavian variants have an additional trigger guard support which makes installation difficult with the standard jig. First test fit and tape the rivets into place. Next using the jig as support, start the rivets off with a hammer. Make sure the rivets are seated before every strike as they have a tendency to back out. Once all the rivets have been started, finish with the press. We use several different custom metal shapes to reach all of the rivets. The most important part of this process is to make sure the rivets are seated correctly to prevent them from backing out. Additionally, make sure the selector stop is on the correct side of the receiver.

Section 6: Magazine Catch & trigger modifications.

The design of the NoDakSpud receiver requires modifications to the magazine catch and trigger. Our build did not require modification to the magazine catch. Some kits will require additional metal to be added to the top of the magazine catch for the magazines to seat correctly on the rails.

 

The trigger group on the rifle has to be modified in the following way for proper function.

 

Section 7: Under-folding stock modifications.

The underfolding stock may require some fitting around the retention holes depending on rear block alignment. File the holes and extra material until you can smoothly repress the stock retention button. This may involve removed the stock assembly several times.

Congratulations, you have built an M95A semi-auto rifle. The following are the last steps involved in the build.

1. Install the trigger group.
2. Install gas tube.
3. Install the under folding stock.
4. Install pistol grip
5. Install bolt and carrier.
6. Check magazine seating.
7. Check bolt function.

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